2017 Billy Button ‘The Dapper’ Durif

The Real Review - Number 1 Durif in Australia.

In Australia Durif is synonymous with North East Victoria, specifically Rutherglen, where it is known to produce big bold dense wines. This Durif grown on the cool lower slopes of Mt Buffalo produces a much different expression of the variety - perfumed and vibrant yet with the hallmark dense colour and firm tannin structure. Neil Mulchay chose to plant Durif on his Porepunkah vineyard despite the challenges of planting in such a cool, high rainfall region because he loved the variety so much. Jo made wine for him under his Mt Buff label from the 2014 vintage. Unfortunately, Neil passed away in 2016 so Jo now purchases the fruit for Billy Button and in many ways this wine is a tribute to him.

Say 'dew-rif'

Production Notes

The fruit was split into a few parcels with a combination of destemming and crushing direct to small open fermenters.  After a few days of maceration fermentation was initiated by wild yeasys.  Ferments were plunged very gently twice a day, then pressed out after a few days of post ferment maceration.  The wine was filled to Flecube, with the addition of some French oak staves to one Flexcube and then matured for 18 months prior to bottling.

Tasting Note

Colour: Dark crimson
Nose:   Dense dark berries, chocolate and subtle spice
Palate:  Firm tannins and concentrated fruit reminiscent of dark cherry and plum.

Reviews

"The power is not bludgeoning, but a slow build from the violet aroma, to a pulpy blue fruited density across the wine's mid-drift.  Dusty tannins, far from drying, pull the saliva and draw one into the next glass as the flovour lingers.  Long.  As fine a durif as nay tasted.  Already gorgeous in it's elemental vigour."  Ned Goodwin - James Halliday Wine Companion 2020.  Published 01 August 2019.

Technical details 

Vineyard:           Mulcahy Vineyard, Porepunkah

Region:              Alpine Valleys

Alcohol:             14.5%

Volume Made:  140 Dozen 

Winemaker:      Jo Marsh