2025 Billy Button ‘Not the Cheese’ Pecorino

Originating in the Marche region in central Italy, Pecorino is also found in Umbria, Liguria, Abruzzo and Tuscany. The variety takes its name from the sheepherders who ate the grapes while herding their flocks up and down the valleys where the vines were grown.  “Pecora” means sheep. Rediscovered in the 80s, Pecorino made an incredible come back after most vines throughout central Italy were replaced with more productive varieties throughout the twentieth century.  This variety is gaining some traction in Australia and to date there are a handful of Australian wine growers spread across regions such as Adelaide Hills, Hunter Valley, Heathcoate and Yarra Valley.

When ripe Pecorino is often balanced with bracing acidity and complex minerality with wines displaying delicate florals, dry herbs and nutty characters.  Very quickly becoming one of the winemaking teams’ favourites – this variety is one to watch. Often generous and savoury, the Alpine Valleys take on this variety so far shows restraint and class.

Say 'pec-oh-rino'

Vintage Snapshot

2025 really was the tale of two vintages. Harvested mid-February, this fruit was picked before the heat hit and was treated to a ripening period of clear days and cool nights. Pristine varietal characters and lovely development of flavours.

Production Notes

Picked late February before the heat hit, the fruit was expressive and maintained lovely natural acidity and varietal character. Fermentation was carried out in stainless steel tanks using selected yeast strains to enhance aromatic purity and preserve bright fruit expression. Following fermentation, the wine was matured on yeast lees until clarification, contributing texture and complexity, before bottling in January 2026.

Tasting notes

Lifted and expressive aromas of citrus pith, green stone fruit and delicate white florals emerge from the glass, layered with hints of waxy blossom. Full-bodied and mouth filling, the palate delivers dense flavours of ripe citrus and green stone fruit at its core. A crisp line of acidity and pithy texture bring freshness and structure, complimented with white spring florals and subtle waxy florals. Textural and persistent -  an excellent food wine.

Technical details

Vineyard:            Greenacres, Merriang South

Region:               Alpine Valleys

Alcohol:              13%

Winemakers:      Glenn James and Jo Marsh

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Reviews

"Krafty name for a wine. Jo Marsh turns out so many beautifully-made wines that it can be easy to take them for granted. Clearly, they shouldn’t be. This is the perfect example. It has such excellent line and length, it’s so exquisitely well balanced, it takes its salty-savoury characters in its stride but still delivers a good amount of fruit. Everything here feels precise in the best of ways." Awarded 93 points, The Winefront, Campbell Mattinson - Posted on 25 May 2026

"Honeysuckle, white flowers and citrus introduce a grape that we are quickly coming to know and love. Pecorino, Italian by heritage, brings its savouriness and gentle fruit ways to the glass, with an attractive textural glide that sets it up for many a tasty food matching. Crisp and even, it comes fleshed out in dusty spring florals, apple, citrus and a bitter-almond savouriness delivered with phenolic grip. It's a wine with presence." Awarded 93 points, Halliday Wine Companion, Jeni Port - Published 24 February 2026